Thursday, 12:00pm
5 December 2024
Dress to express!
Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London
London Fashion and Textile Museum, 4 October 2024 – 9 March 2025‘Outlaws’ explores the influence of Australian performance artist Leigh Bowery, and his legendary London nightclub Taboo
In 1985, when the London nightclub Taboo opened, there had already been a shift in the club scene, writes Janet South. Punk had given way to New Romantics and dressing-up rather than down had become de rigueur for a night’s clubbing. The ‘Blitz Kids’ (who will be getting their own exhibition at The Design Museum next year) had moved to Camden Palace when their club closed and Steve Strange and many of his circle had moved on.
So, why centre an exhibition around Taboo? It came several years after the launch of The Face, ID, Arena and New Sounds New Styles, magazines that celebrated street style and club culture. What was so different about this tiny club in a corner of Leicester Square, which barely lasted a year?
Leigh Bowery (1961-94).
The answer, Leigh Bowery (who also gets his own exhibition at Tate Modern in 2025) the Australian-born performance artist, designer and club culture figurehead. Bowery, his friends, entourage and collaborators elevated counterculture, adding a self-awareness and nascent commercialism to the mix. Not only did they make clothes for themselves but also for their friends in the performing arts or to sell to the public at their own stalls in Camden or Kensington markets. The exhibition recreates their stalls and we see clothes from designers Pam Hogg, Red or Dead, BodyMap, Kahn & Bell and Rachel Auburn who all started their careers with market stalls.
Market stalls recreated (left to right): BodyMap, Red or Dead, Kahn and Bell.
Hair grip fringe on a garment.
London in the mid-1980s became an incubator for these misfits and rebels who flocked there for the cheap flats, squats, student grants and signing on. Dressing up became a political statement and self-expression a lifestyle. ‘Dress as though your life depends on it or don’t bother’ was Leigh Bowery’s mantra.
The club section of the exhibition recreates the dance floor at Taboo and was styled by former ‘club kid’ Dave Cabaret using Adel Rootstein mannequins from his collection. There are some recognisable characters in the crowd. The eclectic mix of influences – from Minnie Mouse to René Magritte – is a visual treat.
Printed ephemera from clubs, events and magazines of the time.
Upstairs explores the spread of Taboo’s influence into pop music, fashion and the media. We see outfits worn by Boy George, Neneh Cherry, Martin Fry of ABC and Bros. Some designers were scouted in the club by boutiques, with Browns buying both John Galliano’s and Dean Bright’s graduate collections, which are on display.
This exhibition has nostalgia appeal certainly, but more importantly, it highlights a hugely influential time in popular culture particularly for the LGBTQ+ community. It also has plenty to inspire a new generation to be expressive and creative with fashion and enjoy making the dance floor or street a catwalk once again.
Outfit worn by Boy George.
‘Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London’ is at the Fashion and Textile Museum from 4 October 2024 until 9 March 2025
The exhibition is curated by Martin Green, Duovision Arts, and NJ Stevenson. Artistic Director: David Cabaret. Creative Consultant: James Lawler, Duovision Arts. In collaboration with Dennis Nothdruft, Head of Exhibitions at the Fashion and Textile Museum.
Tickets £12.65 (concessions may apply) can be pre-booked at fashiontextilemuseum.org
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